Iceland!!!!! First Impressions
This will not be a literary blog post. This will be a pre-teen puppy love declaration of infatuation and ardor. Each of the "i"'s is, in my mind, doted with a heart.
A sculpture in Reykjavik inspired by Viking ships. That's my favorite Viking in the shot. |
We arrived in the land of ice and fire on a drizzly, cold and windy Thursday early in the morning after a direct red-eye. For two days we walked and walked. We did a "dark deeds" literary walking tour linking crime writers and crime fiction to spots around town. We took the bus, visited museums, saw the famous Hallgrimskirkja (church), swam at a public pool, and visited a grocery store, hardware store and a bakery. We ate a disappointing breakfast, had great noodles, were fairly unimpressed by the veggie joint and even less so by the Icelandic joint. On its surface the days in Reykjavik make a lame summer vacation story: graffiti, rain, mostly utilitarian architecture, bad roads, expensive lackluster food.
But I really really liked it. Our AirBnB apartment was ultra convenient, cozy, quiet and very comfortable. The city was easy to get around, very low stress, nothing was crowded and everyone we encountered was lovely. And I loved it. I love the hot water that spurts from the earth all over the place. I love the breath-taking (literally) beauty of the geography. I love the sheep that, outnumbering the human population 2:1, have their run of the island and I love all the wool and woolen goods that are a natural bi-product. I love the people, half of whom are said to believe in elves, who I found universally nice, witty, helpful and relaxed.
Despite many months of darkness, cold most of the year and a good chance that some volcano is raining ash and/or lava somewhere, the 320,000 people of Iceland consistently rank near, or at, the top of evaluations of happiness. Based on my conversations with Icelanders and trolling of the interwebs, they have no military, barely a police force, less than 100 people in prison and the lowest murder rate in the world. They have crazy high birth rates and life expectancy, extremely strong social bonds and, per capita, buy more books than any other people. I think the 120+ public geothermal pools have something to do with them being such a well adjusted people.
The Hallgrimskirkja (church) on the top of downtown. |
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